Installing Shingles ![]() | ![]() |
| Shingle Installation | Leaking Roof | |
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They overlapped the bottom edge of the roof by 5/8 inches. When they were done, they went back to the line and started on the other direction. This gave them a solid row of shingles at the bottom edge with no knockouts. Then they put down another row DIRECTLY over the starter row, offsetting that first row by lining the edge of the shingles onto the middle of where a tab was. Each shingle got four nails from one end of to the other end, on a line slightly above the knockouts.
So far so good, and everything was going great. They started on their second row. They talked about it and decided to snap down a chalk line from one end of the roof to the other, and 5" above the first row, as a guide for where to align the shingles and nail them down. They would snap the chalk lines for every row they did. 5" was the manufacturer's recommendation for that style shingle, but other shingles used a different number. The nails were put in at the points already described, about 5-5/8" inches from the bottoms of those particular shingles. Each shingle style also has it's own placement for nails. The installation of shingles was smooth and easy. In the valleys of the roof, they put down flashing then overlaid it with the # 90 mineral roofing material, taking car to nail the edges of each piece and apply roofing cement. At the chimney and vent pipes, they trimmed the metal flashing to size, made holes for the vents, and nailed it down over the felt, using roofing cement at the edges. The hubs were capped with special shingles and the last cap always used roofing cement. They were done before they knew it, and a big Bar-b-que awaited them down on the ground. |
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